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Jan 12

Troubleshooting Samsung 153V LCD power supply is Just like troubleshooting the CRT type. This monitor came with no power symptom. When you first got a repair of this type of power supply, I recommend that you first remove the switching power supply transformer. Then test each component in the primary area before you perform on the secondary area further. You have to be good in testing basic electronic components to detect the problem.

You can always browse through this website in the event that you do not know how to test the basic electronic components. If you do not check the components the right way, you can miss a faulty component and you will not be able to solve the problem. After careful consideration of all components in the electricity sector, I found the filter capacitor do not have a reading with digital capacitance meter (open), the two round fuse is also idle, 1N4744 15 Volt Zener diode circuit, and finally the power icTOP247F blown! Testing the primary switching power supply with a Dick Smith flyback tester shown in green bars indicate good management.

The only thing left are the secondary diode and filter capacitor. Upon checking it with analog meter and ESR meter, I found out that they are all in a good condition. Other areas like logic board and inverter board seems to be in order (power failure rarely contribute to these two circle). Now we have confirmed that only five components are faulty. Once the components were replaced (with the exception of a backup) and just before turning on the power supply, make sure you connect a 100-watt bulb over the live-ac-line, see the photo on my website.

If it is very bright, it means that there is still somewhere short circuit in the power section. If it all goes off or dim, you can now place your red probe to the secondary area. Check whether dc present at their respective line. If there are DC voltages at the output, you can switch off the power, discharge the filter capacitor (for security reasons), remove the bulb and connect the new backup to its original location.

You are now a hundred percent sure that the LCD will not bring power to as soon as you turn it on. Due to the nature of the filter capacitor rated at 105 Celsius, and you can not get him to replace the 85 C-type else can open after use again for a few weeks or months. The ventilation in the LCD monitor is not as good as the cathode ray tube monitor, because the power supply is covered fully by a large aluminum sheet, and it can become hot very quickly. Conclusion as to whether Samsung 153V LCD power supply or other brands of LCD Monitor repair, the procedure is the same. Who knows the power problem in this monitor is a common mistake, and in the future, you can deal with this brand of power supply in the shortest possible time.To measure electronic components is not so difficult, but on the original parts like the power ic will get you consume a lot of time.

Jan 11

Simple ways how you can become a Professional in switch mode power supplies repair in less than 7 days – Guaranteed!


The Power Supply convert’s your regular household current into low DC voltage used by the computer. When this component fails,there is simply no activity going on wih your computer.Remember to do the easy troubleshooting first.Inspect the Power Supply for any damage.Double-Check all connections.

Learning how to check your power supply and how to replace it when needed can be a life saver if you’re a computer buff or in business with the trusted PC.Don’t take for granted the simple pleasure of turning on your PC and everything works just fine.

We turned on one of our computers recently and in about one hour,it just re-booted itself.And it continued doing so about 10 times a day until we found out the power supply was the culprit.Things to look for when your power supply is going bad or just dies on you are the following.

NO POWER TO THE COMPUTER

Here you must first check the wall outlet for power by connecting another device such as a radio or lamp to be sure power is present.If the computer is connected through a surge protector,check it as well.

If the wall out has power,check the power cable going to the PC to see if AC voltage is making its way to the system unit.Do this with the use of a multimeter.

If there is power,you will have to open the PC and check for power from the power supply to the motherboard.

When using a multimeter to check voltage,be sure you have a good ground for the black lead of the multimeter.

RE-BOOTING PROBLEMS

One main problem you may face with an ailing Power Supply is that it may re-boot the computer without any warning.All information is lost and it seems as though this happens at the worst possible time.

Booting errors when the computer first start’s up is another indicator of this component going on the blink.

POWER DISTRIBUTION PROBLEMS

When the power supply begins to fail,you may receive power at one device and not another.For example,the Hard Drive may receive power but the CDROM Drive has nothing at all.

Another headache with would cause re-booting is the intermittent power going to the drives or the motherboard itself.Follow the steps below to check your power supply should you experience some of the above problems.

CHECKING THE POWER SUPPLY

If the wall outlet,and the power cord are good,make sure the connection at the motherboard is secure.Then you may have to face the fact that the power supply itself is bad.If you have a Multimeter you can test the power supply output before purchasing a new one.Simply follow these steps.

Turn off the PC,but do not unplug it,open the system unit. Set the multimeter to read DC volts in the next range higher than 12 volts.Locate a power connector similair to the hard drive,or cdrom drive connector that is unused and turn on the PC.

You can also unplug a drive connector and use it as well.Turn on the PC and insert the BLACK probe into the power connector on one of the BLACK wires.Touch the RED probe to the YELLOW wire on the power connector.

The multimeter reading should be +12 volts Now touch the RED probe to the RED wire and the reading should be +5 volts.If no readings or different readings occured,you’ll have to replace the power supply.If the readings were correct,you should check the P8 or P9 connectors at the motherboard. These connectors may also be named P4 and P5.To check these connectors,perform the following…

Insert the BLACK probe into P8 at one of the BLACK wires. Insert the RED probe into the P8 connector at the RED wire. The reading on the multimeter should be +5 volts

Check the power going to the Motherboard connections by inserting the RED probe into P8 at the YELLOW wire and you should get +12 volts.Leave the BLACK wire touching the black wire at the P8 connector.Check the BLUE wire and the reading should be a -12 volts.

Now move the BLACK probe to the BLACK wire on the P9 connector.Test the WHITE wire by inserting the RED probe and the reading should be -5 volts.Check the RED wires on the P9 connector and you should get +5 volts on each red wire.You won’t get exactly 5 or 12 volts but the readings will be very close, such as 5.02 volts.

If the Power Supply is a couple of volts off,in either direction,such as when the RED wire should be reading -5 volts but it reads -8 volts,or if there are no readings,replace the power supply.

DO NOT remove the power supply from the system unit case when performing these tests.DO NOT perform these tests if you do not feel comfortable.Be sure to remove any and all electrical static build-up from your clothes and body BEFORE touching any parts inside the system unit.And NEVER open the power supply case for any reason,since high voltage may be present.

Jan 11

Simple ways how you can become a Professional in switch mode power supplies repair in less than 7 days – Guaranteed!


Notebook computer power adapter maintenance and repairs?
First, its buckle down, power adapter, there are four plastic cap. Then screw with a screwdriver to take down (Figure 3 and then open the Hp dv2000 Adapter housing, should be noted that demolition adapter, as far as possible not to break the shell, shell destruction, electromagnetic radiation appears to enhance and so on, affect the stability of the machine.

As the operation and use of improper factors such as notebook computer power supply system is second only to cpu and motherboard, display key components of the third-largest. Power system including power adapter, rechargeable battery and power management systems. But the peacetime use. Laptop power adapter failure led to the situation there are many more people annoy a laptop power adapter price of at least 200 yuan, how bad do? After a warranty how to do? No harm to follow the author to bits and pieces to see.

1, tool preparation

Laptop power adapter is not a high-tech products, in fact, on. In fact, and mobile phones, digital cameras and other power Hp dv6000 Adapter basically the same principle, as long as some electronic knowledge, know people who can repair it, therefore, need only multimeter, screwdrivers, welding tools, etc. (Figure 1

2, the assembly process

Then you can plug in the battery to try, if not an external power supply. If the machine starts correctly, there may be a problem the power cord or adapter. And then use multimeter testing, to identify the power line is there is a problem in order to simplify the maintenance of the difficulty, do not start trying to open an adapter shell.

If so, first eight-shaped loop and power adapter cable unplug (Figure 2, the first power adapter with a multimeter test whether the eight-shaped line of short-circuit phenomenon. Then necessary to replace an 8-shaped loop. Of course, if the After the replacement failure remains the same, then the power Hp dv9000 Adapter to be apart of

Jan 11

Simple ways how you can become a Professional in switch mode power supplies repair in less than 7 days – Guaranteed!


Your laptop goes dead and you don’t understand why because it’s plugged in. The very first thing you should look for is status LEDs. The transformer brick or ac power adapter usually has a status led on it to show that it’s plugged into a good outlet and is functioning. If the laptop adapter LED is not lit and the cord is firmly seated in both the transformer and the wall outlet, then the AC adapter is probably bad. But troubleshooting most power problems takes a little more effort. Fortunately, it’s also common for the failure to be the power cord itself, as I’ve noted with some Toshiba models. Many HP and Compaq models use “L” connectors which are less prone to failure, and Sony and Dell cords seem more robust as well, but it’s always a possibility. It seems to me I’ve seen “L” connectors on IBM Thinkpads as well.

If the status LEDs on the laptop blink when you wiggle the power cord or if they can be kept on if you position the cord just right, the failure is either the power cord or the power connector inside the laptop. Of the two, you want the problem to be the power cord because it’s much easier to fix. A power cord can look perfectly good (see above) but be broken inside, normally as result of letting it dangle off the back of the laptop when you work on your lap. The length of cable running from the ac power adapter (Dell Inspiron 8200 ac adapter)to the laptop is shielded coaxial cable, with the inner conductor attached to the inner part of the barrel connector and the outer part serving as ground. The actual AC power cord is often detachable from the power adapter and is unlikely to fail as long as it’s seated.

Many power cords also include a large choke, probably a ferrite, which I assume is to prevent RF interference generated by the laptop from leaking back onto the cord and turning the length between the laptop and the power adapter into an antenna. Frankly, I just cut them off on a repair if they are close too the barrel connector. It’s nice to have a reasonable wire stripper so you can strip the coax in one shot rather than worrying away the sheathing with a cheap tool. You want to take about an inch of the outer sheath off and then twist the braid shield together. Some techs like to preload the braid with solder before tacking it to the power connector, but if there’s a tab you can wrap it around first it’s not really necessary.

I prefer to buy new connectors than to try to reuse the original for several reasons. First, the original ac power adapter for laptop will have a molded casing on the connector, and the only way to get it off is to hack away a little at a time with a razor. I’ve done it and effected a repair when I was traveling and had no other choice, but the braided conductor on my Toshiba notebook was soldered directly to the outside of the barrel rather than having its own solder point, like a replacement connector. It’s also very difficult to solder factory connectors without melting the insulator unless you have a hot, fine tip iron. I get my replacement connectors at Radio Shack for a buck or so, bring the original for sizing. The inside and outside diameter have to be an exact match, so you might even want to bring your notebook to the store with you.

If you are working with the cord length still attached to the power adapter (transformer), make sure you slide the shell for the new connector onto the cord and faced the right way before you solder on the connector. Otherwise, you’ll be faced with doing it all over or just taping the heck out of the connector. The length of the barrel connector that fits into the laptop body is somewhat flexible, too long can work, to short and you may be able to back-off a little on the connector shell. To the left, you can see the inner (yellow) of the laptop power cord soldered to the center tab of the barrel conector, and the braid soldered to the outer tab. If you have a heatshrink gun and tubing you can make a much neater job of it than I’m doing here:-)

Obviously, you don’t want the two tabs to touch or it just shorts out, so you can work a little tape around one of the tabs if you are paranoid, but leave room to get the shell on. The shell is actually threaded, as is the connector, so they usually hold together pretty good. Since this particular failure gave me so much grief the first time it happened, I always travel with a spare replacement end for my laptop power cord. While my first replacement is still holding up, should it fail, I can just undo the splice and tape the replacement end on in a matter of minutes. It’s unfortunate that so many people buy a new laptop power adapter or even crack their laptop open and start fooling with the inside receptacle when the problem is just the connector on the power cord.